February 7: Utö – misty introduction

The first full day on Utö was misty and relatively mild, lending a rather alluring air of mystery as we toured around the island for the first time.

7867

This is the yard right outside the hostel building as I saw it when venturing out for breakfast. The hostel and the rest of the buildings (such as these storage buildings) belonging to the hotel that owns it (Utö Havshotel) used to belong to the military, if I remember correctly.

7872

The view out from the dining hall in the main building of the hotel; note the stone labyrinth.

7875

A splash of color in a decidedly gray environment: lichen growing on the concrete railing of the balcony outside the dining hall.

7881

An affectionate cat that we met outside the dining hall.

7891

One of the only wooded areas on the island. The generous spacing of the trees makes me think of the Hundred Acre Wood, for some reason.

7907

From the village, a view up to the lighthouse.

7912

Here's a closer view of the lighthouse, with its highly distinctive colors.

7915

And yet closer.

7919

Nearby is the pilot station. The waters around Utö are treacherously rocky, so cargo ships have to be led through them by a pilot, based here, who knows them inside out.

7923

Stenhuset (Stone House, so called because it's one of the only masonry buildings on the island) is a museum about Utö; it's also (I think) the oldest building on the island, built, as see here, in 1753.

7926

Swans in a Tanguyan unworld.

7938

The Utö church.

7950

Helipad. Matt and James are a helicopter. Can you tell?

7955

The heath that extends over most of the unsettled southern lobe of the island.

7963

Here at the southern tip of the island are the two pavilions designed and built by the previous year's class. This is just one of them.

7968

It's built over and around this old bunker.

7976

A nearby memorial to a shipwreck.

7987

Here's the other pavilion, whose shape follows the lay of the rocks underneath.

8013

Another bunker on the way back to the village.

8021

Mineral accretions on the bunker wall.

8029

A Very Friendly Lab Retriever that we met and cuddled on the way back.

8035

A typical view from the village toward the harbor; there are dozens of these boathouses over the water there.

8046

Large cargo ship passing through.

8054

Looking from my bedroom window to some other buildings of the hotel; the building to the left contains one of the saunas.

8067

A few of us went back to the south end of the island that night to explore the bunkers further. It was a little creepy, but the gusty wind somehow mitigated that — it was far better than, say, a deathly calm. Not mitigating the creepiness was this kind of scene, where it looked like the inhabitants had vanished suddenly. The light source here is not the camera flash but the LED light from my headlamp.

8073

An old gun mount.

8081

Some 20-year-old inscritchings.

8086

WHO WAS TJ? [Edit, June 2011: It has been clarified that "TJ" stands for "tänään jäljellä," which means "days remaining," and that this is a common sort of thing to notate while in service in the Finnish army. The conscript who wrote this would have had 221 days remaining in his service on Utö. Thanks Jari]

Europe 2009

jbdowse.com

© 2023 Jonathan Dowse / jbdowse at gmail

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  • Introduction
  • Nature journal
  • Finland
    • Introduction to Helsinki
      • Arrival
      • Kallio 1
      • Kallio 2
      • February 3–5
    • Utö
      • Trip over
      • Misty introduction
      • Tour + night shots
      • Sun + moon
      • Stenhuset
      • Sunsnow
      • Site + lighthouse
      • Cold day
      • Last full day
      • Trip back
    • Helsinki late winter
      • February 17
      • History tour
      • February 18–24
      • Aalto studio
      • Aalto house
      • Feb 25 – Mar 7
      • March 8–15
      • Laajasalo
      • March 15–22
    • Lapland
      • Helsinki to Rovaniemi
      • Rovaniemi
      • Rovaniemi to Inari
      • Ski to Pielpajärvi
      • Pielpajärven kirkko
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      • SIIDA
      • Inari to Bugøynes
      • Bugøynes morning
      • Bugøynes harbor
      • Bugøynes hill
      • Bugøynes evening
      • Bugøynes to Inari
      • Inari to Rovaniemi
      • Rovaniemi to Helsinki
    • S. Finland post-equinox
      • Tapiola 1
      • Tapiola 2
      • Trip to Hämeenlinna
      • Hämeen Linna 1
      • Hämeen Linna 2
      • Hämeenlinna arts
    • Stockholm
      • Trip over
      • Drottninggatan
      • Stadsbibliotek
      • Markuskyrkan
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      • Gamla Stan
      • Downtown
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      • Fog sunset
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      • Across town
      • KUMU
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      • Vanalinn 3
      • Trip back
    • Helsinki late April
      • April 17–19
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      • Tervasaari
      • Katajanokka Jugend 1
      • Katajanokka Jugend 2
      • TKK sunset
      • Lansiväylä
    • Southern Finland tour
      • Setting off
      • Paimio 1
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      • Turku Cathedral
      • Åbo Akademi
      • Chapel of the Holy Cross
      • Chapel of the Resurrection
      • Art Chapel
      • Forum Marinum
      • Turku Main Library
      • Turku downtown
      • Turun Linna 1
      • Turun Linna 2
      • Rauma
      • Villa Mairea
      • Tampere arrival
      • Metso
      • Tampere Cathedral
      • Kaleva Church
      • Tampere departure
      • Petäjäveden kirkko 1
      • Petäjäveden kirkko 2
      • Jyväskylä
      • Jyväskylä University 1
      • Jyväskylä University 2
      • Säynätsalo 1
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      • Muuratsalo 1
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    • Uusimaa May
      • Vappu Eve
      • Vappu night
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      • May 1–3
      • Viikki Church
      • Viikki housing
      • May 4–11
      • Trip to Porvoo
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      • White night
      • Nuuksio 1
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      • Evening run
      • May 15
      • Shore sunset
      • Sauna
    • Return to Utö
      • Helsinki departure
      • Trip over - bus
      • Trip over - ferry 1
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      • Sunset
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      • Clearing fog
      • Shore walk
      • Foggy morning
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      • Bench tour 1
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  • Transition
    • Finland + Sweden
      • Sunrise
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      • Turku 1
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      • Turku to Stockholm
      • Norrmalm 1
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      • Södermalm
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      • Gamla Staden
      • Malmö to Berlin
    • Germany
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      • Berlin Mitte
      • Tiergarten
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      • Berlin to Bamberg
      • Bamberg evening 1
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      • Inselstadt 1
      • Domplatz 1
      • Bamberger Dom 1
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      • To Obere Pfarre
      • Obere Pfarre
      • Karmelitenkirche
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      • Michelsberg 1
      • Michelsberg 2
      • Michelsberg to Domplatz
      • Domplatz 2
      • Inselstadt 2
      • Erlöserkirche 1
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      • Bamberg morning
      • Bamberg to Bodensee
    • Switzerland
      • Bodensee to Klosters
      • Flüelapass
      • Zernez arrival
      • Zernez morning 1
      • Sent church
      • Sent northeast
      • Sent village
      • Sent to Zernez
      • Zernez afternoon
      • Zernez evening 1
      • Zernez morning 2
      • Trip to Ramosch
      • Hike to Vnà
      • Vnà 1
      • Vnà 2
      • Vnà 3
      • Vnà church
      • Hike down from Vnà
      • Ramosch
      • Ride to Vulpera
      • Tarasp Vulpera
      • Hike to Fontana
      • Fontana 1
      • Fontana church
      • Fontana 2
      • Chaposch + Valatscha
      • Hike down to En
      • En to Ardez
      • Ardez
      • Ardez to Zernez
      • Zernez church 1
      • Zernez church 2
      • Zernez evening 2
      • Zernez evening 3
      • Zernez departure
      • Klosters to Zürich
      • Romandie
    • France + Spain
      • Geneva to Avignon
      • Avignon evening 1
      • Avignon evening 2
      • Avignon 1
      • Palais des Papes
      • Rocher des Doms
      • Avignon 2
      • Avignon 3
      • Avignon 4
      • Avignon to coast
      • French Pyrenees
      • Arrival in Spain
      • Ride to Barcelona
      • Barcelona arrival
  • Barcelona
    • Main session
      • MACBA
      • Beach
      • June 1
      • Plaça de Jaume Sabartés
      • Rooftop daytime 1
      • Vila Olímpica
      • Parc Diagonal Mar
      • Badalona
      • June 6
      • June 7–9
      • Museu Picasso
      • Rooftop party
      • Miralles office + CCCB
      • German Pavilion
      • Metro construction
      • Verbenas de Sant Joan
      • Trip to Igualada
      • Igualada Cemetery 1
      • Igualada Cemetery 2
      • Igualada Cemetery 3
      • Return from Igualada
      • Tour de France
      • Rooftop evening
      • Rooftop twilight
      • Rooftop daytime 2
    • Amsterdam
      • Arrival 1
      • Arrival 2
      • Arrival 3
      • Boat tour 1
      • Boat tour 2
      • Amsterdam evening
      • Amsterdam morning
      • Het Schip 1
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      • Westerpark
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      • Trip to Rotterdam
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      • Architectuurinstituut 1
      • Huis Sonneveld
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      • Kunsthal
      • Rotterdam departure
      • Plan Zuid 2
      • Plan Zuid 3
      • Evening + hostel
      • Beurs 1
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      • Beurs 3
      • Amsterdam Centrum
      • Ride to Schiphol
      • Flight from Amsterdam
    • Barcelona final week
      • Walk to Palau Nacional
      • Palau Nacional 1
      • Palau Nacional 2
      • Walk from Palau Nacional
      • Walk to Castell 1
      • Walk to Castell 2
      • Castell perimeter 1
      • Castell perimeter 2
      • Castell perimeter 3
      • Castell 1
      • Castell 2
      • Castell 3
      • Castell 4
      • Walk from Castell 1
      • Walk from Castell 2
      • Walk to Park Güell
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      • Park Güell 3
      • Gràcia
      • Passeig de Gràcia
      • Casa Amatller
      • Into Ciutat Vella
      • Catedral + Roman Quarter
      • Roman Quarter
      • Walk to Santa Maria del Mar
      • Santa Maria del Mar
      • Walk to Palau Güell
      • Palau Güell
      • Walk to Fundació Miró
      • Fundació Miró
      • Walk from Fundació Miró
      • Barcelona departure